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Open-air concerts, lakeside bonfires and urban saunas: How to spend Finnish Midsummer in the city

Finland's cities have plenty to offer this midsummer weekend for those not planning traditional pilgrimages to the countryside.

Photo shows the crowd at the Himos Juhannus festival, near Jyväskylä in Central Finland.
The crowd at Himos Juhannus, an annual midsummer festival held near the city of Jyväskylä in Central Finland. Image: Esa Syväkuru / Yle

Midsummer in Finland is traditionally a time for people to escape urban life and spend the holiday weekend surrounded by forests and lakes (and mosquitoes) in the Finnish countryside.

The midsummer migration usually begins on Thursday evening, as people pack their cars and head to one of the estimated 600,000 summer cottages dotted around the country for a weekend of sauna, grilled food — and complaining about the weather.

However, there is a growing trend in recent years for people to instead choose a kaupunkijuhannus, a city midsummer — whether that means staying at home for the weekend or taking a city break somewhere else in the country.

Finnish cities have responded to this changing behaviour, and many now offer a full programme of midsummer events and celebrations for staycationing residents and mosquito-avoiding city breakers.

Here’s a sample of what's happening in cities across the country this midsummer weekend.

Helsinki

Photo shows a concert as part of the Stadin Juhannus festival.
The Stadin Juhannus festival on the island of Lonna is popular among music-lovers. Image: City of Helsinki / Anu Rossi

The capital has an array of events on offer this year, the majority of which are located on any one of the city's many islands and beaches.

Seurasaari will once again be the venue for a popular Midsummer Eve bonfire, while midsummer cruises around the archipelago are available from a number of different providers.

The island of Lonna is the location for Stadin juhannus, which brings together an eclectic mix of Finnish musicians to help revellers party the weekend away. There is also a sauna on the island, for any partygoer longing for the more traditional midsummer habits.

Back in the city, Allas Sea Pool will host a midsummer festival with performances on both Friday and Saturday, while the international art event Helsinki Biennial is open to the public throughout the weekend.

In addition, the We Love Helsinki midsummer dance has become a unique and much-loved part of the capital's midsummer programme, as participants of all ages tango til they drop.

Tampere

Swimmers at Rauhaniemi beach in Tampere.
Rauhaniemi folk sauna and the nearby beach are a popular destination for families over the midsummer weekend. Image: City of Tampere / Laura Vanzo

The self-proclaimed 'sauna capital of the world' has much to offer löyly-lovers this midsummer weekend, including the public saunas at Rauhaniemi and Kaukajärvi as well as at the Sauna-Restaurant Kuuma slap bang in the city centre.

Heli Jokela of the city's tourism unit, Visit Tampere, tells Yle News that the city's compact size is one of its biggest advantages over the midsummer weekend.

"You can easily combine a city event with the traditional 'peace and quiet' midsummer here, with some of the public saunas and swimming beaches just a few minutes' walk from the city centre," Jokela says.

Traditionally in Tampere, the big midsummer draw is the Valtteri Festival, held in Tullikamarin aukio just a short walk from the city's main train station — with musical genres from indie pop to psychedelic rock on the menu this year.

Another popular Tampere pastime is to take a boat trip to the island of Viikinsaari, where visitors can celebrate the 'white night' of midsummer amongst the plush green surroundings of the picturesque Viikki Manor.

And for those who prefer more of an adrenaline rush over summer solstice, the Särkänniemi amusement park is open all weekend and offers rides with names like 'Tornado', 'Boom' and 'High Voltage'.

Lahti

Photo shows a cruise ship on Lake Päijänne.
Midsummer cruises on Lake Päijänne are a favourite activity for many people in Lahti. Image: City of Lahti

The Lahti region is one of the busiest and most popular destinations for people spending a more traditional midsummer at a summer cottage, but the local tourist board has noticed significantly increased footfall around the city centre in recent years too.

"Many cottage owners say that guests are now more interested in activities, restaurant services, open saunas and live music events, even during midsummer, and which are mostly enjoyed with family," Tiina Kallio, head of the city's Destination Marketing unit, tells Yle News.

A musical fountain — located in Pikku-Vesijärvi park — is a favourite midsummer attraction for locals and tourists alike, as shows consist of spectacular water jets accompanied by well-known tunes from movies and musicals. The aquatic performances begin at 6pm every day.

The Maauimala outdoor pool, located at the foot of the city's famous ski jump hill, is another much-loved destination for locals who prefer the urban sauna-and-swim experience.

Further downtown, Lahti harbour offers a mix of cozy restaurants, cafés as well as the impressive Sibelius Hall, and there are regular midsummer cruises available to the Vääksy canal and Lake Vesijärvi.

Jyväskylä

Juhannuskokko Haukivuoren Kapustasalmessa. Sää 2022 oli lämmin ja paikalla on kymmeniä veneitä. Kokko palaa pienessä saaressa.
Bonfires are an important aspect of the midsummer tradition. But this year, forest fire warnings are in effect across the country. Image: Isto Matias Janhunen / Yle

The capital of Finland's lake district, Jyväskylä, has a particular soft spot for a traditional midsummer lakeside bonfire — with pyres planned for Vehryt Nouka in the city itself as well as at nearby Camping Sinervä, Tarhapään Ladonlahti and Laukaa's Sataman Juhannus.

The city is also renowned for its love of 'lavatanssit', traditional open-air dancing. There are popular dance pavilions scattered all over the city and the wider Central Finland region, including Matilan Ankkuri in Äänekoski, Keurusselkä in Keuruu and Kuikan lava on the outskirts of Jyväskylä city.

Back in the centre, Jyväskylä's main street Kauppakatu will host a 'City Midsummer' event with bars, restaurants and nightclubs all open and ready to serve people enjoying a kaupunkijuhannus.

And slightly further afield, the holiday resort Himos near the town of Jämsä will host its annual Himos Juhannus event again this year, bringing favoured Finnish acts including Antti Tuisku, JVG and Elastinen to the stage.

Oulu

Photo shows a sup-boarder on the Oulujoki river.
Sup-boarding on the Oulujoki river has become a popular midsummer pastime in recent years. Image: City of Oulu

The west-coast city of Oulu offers visitors to Turkansaari Open Air Museum a fascinating insight into midsummers past — complete with periodic costumes, traditional tunes and even a church service.

Meanwhile a sea taxi is available to bring revellers to the island of Hietasaari, where live music, ‘midsummer magic’ and communal dining at a 'friend’s table' is on offer.

Back in the city centre, Roosa Palomäki, Service Manager with Oulu Tourist Info, notes that many locals enjoy spending midsummer in the downtown area.

"Oulu is quite unique in the sense that we have several campfire sites and parks right in the city centre by the river delta, where people will have their midsummer barbecues and picnics," Palomäki says.

There is also a Midsummer Dance and 90’s disco at Nuijamiesten lava, with bus transportation from the city.

Rovaniemi

Photo shows sup-boarders on a lake near Rovaniemi, Finnish Lapland.
Midsummer sup-boarders on a lake near Rovaniemi in Finnish Lapland. Image: Vesa Vaarama / Yle

The biggest city in Finnish Lapland is also the undisputed home of the midnight sun, and offers many interesting — and interestingly-named — viewing spots within a stones throw of the city centre, such as Jätkänkynttilä ("Lumberjack’s Candle") Bridge.

The city is also arranging a family-friendly beach party at Ounaskoski on Midsummer Eve.

"We encourage people to join with friends and families. Bring along picnic blankets, your own food, games and a festive mood," says Katja Rakkolainen, the city's Culture and Arts producer.

In addition, Rovaniemi provides a wide range of midsummer activities for the outdoorsy type, including jet skiing, river cruises and hiking trails to popular viewing spots.

A little further east (about 200km), the Solstice Festival in Ruka boasts ‘magnificent views and an unreal atmosphere created by the midnight sun’ as it brings together lovers of music, art and nature for a "celebration of life and light".

And if none of the above is of particular interest, it is also possible to just sit out somewhere in a city and enjoy the beauty of Finland's urban landscapes, such as this:

View of Helsinki city centre on Midsummer Eve.
View of Helsinki on Midsummer Eve 2021. Image: City of Helsinki / Mikko Huotari

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